Swing - Adirondack Redwood, Woodworking Plans
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REDWOOD
Adirondack Swing
REDWOOD
Naturally beautiful
Easy to use
Practical and economical
Durable and stable
Resistant to decay and insects
BUILD IT WITH
Adirondack Swing
BUILD THE SWING FRAME
Enjoy the art of relaxation with this
easy-to-build porch swing. Modeled after
the classic Adirondack lawn chair, this
two-person swing features rounded wooden
slats and a comfortable slant-back design.
This style swing is typically installed on
a covered porch or gazebo. It can also be
hung beneath a second-story deck or from
a large tree branch.
This redwood swing is built primarily of 1x4s and 1x6s; the front and
rear uprights are cut from 2x4s for maximum strength. Start by
assembling the frame of the swing to form the seat section. Attach the
four 2x4 uprights, then begin installing the slats that form the back
and seat of the swing.
Remember to cut and measure as you go, using the Materials List as
a guide. Fasten together all the parts with corrosion-resistant stainless
steel or hot-dipped galvanized screws. To prevent the screws from
splitting the wood, predrill pilot holes first, especially at board ends.
Counterbore all visible surface screw holes with a
3
⁄
8
-inch-diameter
spade bit to a depth of about
1
⁄
4
inch. Then fill the holes with
3
⁄
8
-inch-
diameter redwood plugs, which you can make with a plug cutter.
1. Seat frame
Start by making the front rail and lower back rail;
cut two 1x4s to 47
3
⁄
8
inches long. Then cut the three 1x4 seat sup-
ports that connect the front rail to the lower back rail. Rough-cut
these three crosspieces to 20 inches long.
To make certain the swing provides
many years of enjoyment, build it with
an all-heartwood grade of redwood:
Deck Heart or Construction Heart. These
grades provide maximum durability
and are easy to work.
1x4 redwood long back slats
1x4 redwood short back slats
1x4 redwood
upper back rail
No. 3/0
chain
1x6 redwood
armrest
1x4 redwood
middle back rail
2x4 redwood
rear upright
1x4 redwood
seat slat
3
⁄
8
" x 2
1
⁄
2
"
carriage bolt,
lock nuts,
and washers
1
1
⁄
2
"
1x4 redwood
seat support
1x4 redwood
lower back rail
1
3
⁄
8
"
1x4 redwood
front rail
1x4 redwood seat support
1x4 redwood
arm bracket
2x4 redwood front upright
ASSEMBLE THE SWING
2. Seat supports
The 1x4 seat supports are specially shaped to
create the comfortable contoured seat and slanted back. Refer to the
seat-support pattern (shown below) for specific details. Note that
the back end of each seat support is miter-cut to a 15° angle and
a portion of the upper edge is trimmed away to accommodate the
five 1x4 seat slats.
1. Back slats
The doublewide back of the swing is made up
of 10 redwood 1x4 slats, which are cut to resemble two side-by-side
Adirondack chairs. Cut the six center slats to 36 inches long and
the four end ones to 30 inches. Also, cut to length the two upper
back rails and the middle back rail. These three 1x4 rails get screwed
across the rear of the slats. Bevel cut the upper edge of the middle
back rail to 15° to support the swing’s armrests at the back.
Round off the bottom corners of the rail with a 1
3
⁄
4
-inch radius.
19"
2" squares
15
°
miter cut
Match
curves
8"
R
C
L
Here’s how to make the seat supports: Take one of the 20-inch-long
1x4s and draw the grid of 2-inch squares onto its surface, as shown
in the seat-support pattern. Then measure 19 inches from one end
and mark the 15° cut. Next, using
the pattern as a guide, mark the cut
line through the squares in the grid.
Cut along the segmented line with a
sabre saw and lightly sand the edges
smooth. Now, use this support as
a template to mark the remaining
two. That will ensure that all three
supports will be identical.
3. Uprights
Cut the two front
uprights from a 2x4, making
sure that both ends of each board
are perfectly square. Then rough cut the two rear uprights to about
14
3
⁄
4
inches. Miter both ends of these 2x4 pieces to 15°. All of the
uprights should finish at a height of 13
5
⁄
16
inches.
4. Assemble the frame
Begin assembling the swing’s frame
by screwing the front rail to the two front uprights. Hold the vertical
uprights flush with the ends of the front rail and attach each one
with two 1
3
⁄
4
-inch screws. Follow the same procedure to attach the
lower back rail to the rear uprights.
Next, screw a 1x4 seat support to the inside surface of each front
upright using 1
3
⁄
4
-inch screws. Be sure the angled ends of the
supports point toward the rear of the frame. Then, screw the back
ends of the seat supports to the inside of the rear uprights. Now
use 2
1
⁄
2
-inch screws to install the remaining seat support in the
middle of the frame by first screwing through the front rail and
then through the lower back rail.
15
°
miter cut
Space
slats
evenly
21"
3
⁄
4
"
3
⁄
4
"
14
3
⁄
4
"
1
3
⁄
4
"
radius
13
5
⁄
16
"
13
5
⁄
16
"
Seat supports
15
°
miter cut
Arrange five back slats—one “chair” back—on a flat surface and
space them equally. Secure or weight the slats to keep them aligned
and square. Find and mark the centerline of the radius for the
curved ends of the center three, or longer, slats. Use a compass
or pencil and string to scribe or mark the radius lines for cutting.
Use the curved slats as templates for cutting the curves in all the
remaining back slats, including the four shorter side slats. Sand
the edges smooth with 120-grit sandpaper.
2. Assemble the swing back
Now, lay all ten back slats face
down on a clean surface, in order and spaced equally. Again, secure
or weight them as before to keep them aligned and square. Leave
at least a
3
⁄
4
-inch space between the chair backs to accommodate
the center seat support later
If you choose to counterbore the screws for the following three back
rail attachments, you must use screws that are at least
1
⁄
4
inch
shorter than indicated here.
Measure down 8 inches from the top of the center slats and
attach the upper back rails. Drive two 1
1
⁄
4
-inch screws through
the rails and into each slat; be careful not to overdrive the
screws or their sharp points will poke through the other side.
The middle back rail attaches 13
5
⁄
16
inches up from the bottom
ends of the slats, with its beveled edge facing toward the top of
the slats. The rail should extend beyond the slats an equal
amount at each end. Use 1
1
⁄
4
-inch screws.
3. Install the swing back
Set the assembled swing back
into the frame. Slip it between the rear uprights and push it back
against the lower back rail. The bottom ends of the slats should be
flush with the bottom edge of the lower back rail. Secure the back
by driving two 2
1
⁄
2
-inch screws
through the ends of the middle
back rail and into the rear uprights.
Check to make certain the ends
of the middle rail are even with the
tops of the uprights. Now, switch
back to 1
1
⁄
4
-inch screws and fasten
the bottom ends of the slats to the
lower back rail. Again, predrill
pilot holes, if necessary, to prevent
the screws from splitting the slats.
4. Armrests
Cut the two
27
1
⁄
2
-inch-long armrests from
a redwood 1x6. Refer to the armrest detail illustration, which shows
how they taper to only 3 inches wide at the back end. Cut the
large, rounded front ends with a sabre saw and sand them smooth
with 120-grit sandpaper. For a little added comfort, ease the top
edges of the armrests using a router fitted with a
1
⁄
4
-inch roundover
bit, or an orbital finishing sander and 100-grit sandpaper.
Middle
back
rail
Rear
upright
2
1
⁄
2
"
screws
Lower
back rail
1
1
⁄
4
" screws
6
1
⁄
2
"
16
3
⁄
4
"
2"
3"
R
C
L
7
⁄
8
" diameter chain holes
12"
27
1
⁄
2
"
Cut the two short arm brackets
from a 1x4. Hold them flush
with the tops of the front
uprights and attach them by
driving two 2
1
⁄
2
-inch screws
through from the inside of
the 2x4 uprights.
1
1
⁄
4
" screw
Armrest
2
1
⁄
2
"
screws
1
1
⁄
2
"
Arm
bracket
1
1
⁄
4
"
radius
6"
Front
leg
3
1
⁄
4
"
ASSEMBLE THE SWING
Set each armrest in position on the frame, with its wide front end
on top of the front upright and its narrow back end on the rear
upright. Attach each armrest with four 2
1
⁄
2
-inch screws, driven
into the uprights. Use one 1
1
⁄
4
-inch screw to attach the armrest
to the arm bracket.
8. Add the chains
As mentioned earlier, the swing is suspended
from four chains that are bolted to the 2x4 uprights. To attach the
chains, start by boring two
7
⁄
8
-inch-diameter chain holes through
each armrest, as shown in the armrest detail illustration (shown
previously). Next, bore a
3
⁄
8
-inch-diameter bolt hole through each
upright. Locate these holes three inches directly below the chain
holes in the armrests.
To hang the swing from a standard 8-foot-high ceiling, you’ll need
four 6-foot lengths of No. 3/0 steel chain. Have the chain cut to
length at the hardware store.
In each bolt hole, insert a
3
⁄
8
-inch-diameter by 2
1
⁄
2
-inch carriage bolt.
Tighten each bolt with a washer and locknut. Then, pass a length
of chain through the hole in the armrest and slip the first link over
the end of the bolt. Add another washer and locknut to secure the
chain. Repeat this procedure for the remaining three chains.
9. Hang the swing
The seat of the swing should be suspended
about 20 to 22 inches above the porch floor. However, to avoid serious
injury, it’s very important that you bolt the chains to solid framing
members, such as a ceiling joist or roof rafter. Never hang the
swing by screwing into plywood sheathing or thin ceiling planks.
For the strongest connection,
bore a hole through the
middle of the framing
member and attach the
chains with carriage bolts or
threaded eyebolts. Another
option is to bore pilot holes
into the bottom edge of
the framing members and
attach the chains with long
lag screws or eye screws.
Tools you will need
Tape measure, combination square,
cordless drill/driver or electric drill, power miter saw or hand saw,
sabre saw with adjustable baseplate, assorted twist-drill bits, counter-
sink bit, adjustable wrench,
3
⁄
8
- and
7
⁄
8
-inch-diameter spade
bits, hammer, orbital sander or sanding block, 100-and 120-grit
sandpaper,
3
⁄
8
-inch-diameter plug cutter and pencil compass.
Optional: router with
1
⁄
4
-inch-radius roundover bit.
6
1
⁄
2
"
16
3
⁄
4
"
4
1
⁄
4
"
3"
11
⁄
16
"
3
⁄
8
" diameter bolt holes
15
°
bevel
14"
Space slats evenly
5. Seat slats
Next, cut five 1x4 slats for the seat of the swing.
Note that the front seat slat is 3 inches longer than the other
four slats because it wraps around the front uprights. Cut a
1
1
⁄
2
by 2
1
⁄
8
-inch notch into both ends of the front seat slat to
allow it to fit around the 2x4 uprights (see illustration). Again,
use the router and roundover bit or orbital sander, if desired, to
soften the top edge of the front seat slat. Screw the front seat slat
to the three seat supports using 2
1
⁄
2
-inch screws.
6. Install the seat slats
Set the remaining four seat slats
onto the frame and space them equally. Check to make sure both
ends of each slat is flush with the outside of the seat supports.
Secure each slat with six 1
1
⁄
4
-inch screws. There should be a
minimum of a
3
⁄
8
-inch space between the last seat slat and the
slats of the back. This space will allow rain and debris to wash
through to the ground and to not collect on the seat.
7. Apply a finish
Redwood accepts a wide variety of wood
finishes. Regardless of which one you choose, be sure it’s an
exterior-grade finish. Begin by sanding the wood smooth either
by hand or with an orbital finishing sander. Start with 100-grit
sandpaper and sand all surfaces. If you’re sanding by hand,
be certain to sand with, not across, the wood grain. Sweep the
chair clean of all dust and grit and then switch to 120-grit
sandpaper for the final sanding.
Refer to the Finishes section on the back of this brochure for
various recommended finish options and their effects.
Do not apply a clear topcoat finish, such as varnish. It will
eventually crack and blister, leaving you no option but to sand
or strip off the old finish.
Upright
Armrest
3"
No. 3/0 chain
3
⁄
8
" x 2
1
⁄
2
"
carriage bolt,
lock nuts,
and washers
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